tudor ensemble 1

Kimiko Sews

A Gentlewoman's Creative Blog

Entries by tag: gable hood

Image of the Day - Jane Seymour
tudor ensemble 1
(Cross posted from my blog here: Permalink: http://www.kimiko1.com/blog/?p=120)

There are days when I get sidetracked into looking up an image. Today was one of those days when I was reading about the different types of blackwork on the Historic Hand Embroidery group. They hadn't posted an image of Hans Holbein's works that have blackwork embroidery, even though an alternate name for the one of the stitches used is Holbein stitch (aka Spanish stitch, true stitch, double-running stitch, line stitch, etc.), so I went hunting.

And that is when I found this image, but in wonderful glorious super huge sized Google scan of the original, located on wikimedia commons. You can see incredible details of not only her blackworked sleeve ruffle (which I often see redone as a cuff not ruffle - not sure why), but her smock square (the area around the neck) is done in white work! And there is this interesting little black dots along the edges of both areas.

The image here is a far smaller sized image as a place holder.

Click to go to wikimedia commons page for much larger image.

We are now discussing this image as we are seeing various details. As an example, you can see that on her English bonnet (mka English gabled hood), it appears that the golden geometric band portion is not a fabric brocade. Instead it appears to be either gold tubular beads with goldwork in between, or perhaps all in goldwork, done in smooth and rough/check purls. The only question I have is the white silk or fine linen?

I'm also seeing subtle details in how the edge of the hood is done, and even in how the gold jeweled ouches are far more dimensional than I had original thought (and than is usually recreated). I am now tempted to make up this bonnet in a more period fashion, but that is going to take a lot of goldwork now, and jewels, and more.

But for now, enjoy the image!

handsewing, tailor sewing
Some time ago, I was busy working my hands getting some accessories made for Caid's Pentathlon A&S competition. I was so busy I didn't blog much about them. Sadly, I ended up very sick a few days before the event, and cancelled my plans to go as I remained sick through that weekend. Needless to say I was very frustrated as I'd put a lot of time and energy into making the final touches to my Embroideress outfit, which would be entered into the competition, among other items like my heraldic embroidery, and the English bonnet (aka gable) that I'd been working on for far too long.

So, today, I collected all the photos, sorted through them, and made a new photo album and landing page for all those items. You can click on the photo to your right to get to the landing page. From there, I have links to the photo album itself.

I think with the new page, and the captions under each photo, that I've covered each item pretty well. As always, if something is confusing, please post a comment and I will be happy to answer.

Coming up for air
Sorry I haven't posted in a long while. I've been madly trying to get projects done or dealt with for this weekend's Caid A&S Pentathlon competition. My hands have been busy (and getting tired) with hand sewing stockings, and making fingerloop braids, and I also need to do up documentation as well still. I'm entering 3 items only this time, my heraldic embroidery, my English bonnet & frontlet (aka the gable hood), and my completed merchant's wife's ensemble (aka MAAS Embroideress outfit.)

One of the planned projects is a new French hood, which for all the parts I have I could do up fairly quickly - the hood is done and had been sitting awhile, I've got the jewelery for the edge billament, and making a coif is fairly quick. But I already have a coif and an old hat, so that is what I will be wearing instead. I just couldn't justify the French hood for the time period in question for a merchant's wife - if this was for a gentry level garment it would be a shoe in, but for the late 1560s I wasn't seeing the evidence oddly enough among my collected images. The one woman wearing a French hood is from about the mid 1570s or 1580s (not sure the date of her image but she was born in 1560), and the other images that have French hood is a gentry woman in the effigy, which matches Hoffnaegel's image (longer view in color) (see the 5th lady from the left with the French hood - it says in translation English Noble Women).

So, since many of the images show merchant women wearing just their coif (I think - it is all white on their head so hard to say), even at the big wedding party, that is all I will be wearing for the completed look.

Now I can just focus on the small last details, and doing up the writing for the documentation. Should all that get done in time, I will think about making up that French hood to wear another time.

Playing with hair to fit the English bonnet.
tudor ensemble 1
Today I spent a bit of time braiding up my hair, and taking photos of what I look like with the hair up and braided, then with the front braids taped (using a blunt needle), and then with the English bonnet being worn. The first few tries were not as good, but the final two photos seems to have done the trick.

The photo album is now here on FB (public album), and I put in all the photos, and the inspirational images (and a photo of my cat, just because).

So, while the taped hair braids seems to have worked in front, the hair in back must be on top of my head in a bun, unbraided, or it won't fit right. Also the front taped hair braids are definitely not enough to match what I am seeing in the historical portraits. Especially since the taped braids disappeared once I got the bonnet to fit my face properly. So tomorrow I'll be buying a fabric pen and making a striped silk front hair casing (or more like curtain or hair cover), and will add to that photo album.

English gable bonnet photo links
tudor ensemble 1
I'm not feeling like it is worth posting this directly here right now. But if you haven't seen the photos of the mostly done English gable bonnet, I posted them to FB here and here. If those don't show up, it is in this small public photo album here.

As a reminder, they are based on these two portraits (links given). Jane Seymour for the general shape and proportion (the bonnet ends around the mouth area by c.1536, and I wanted this bonnet originally for my 1530s outfit), and because I couldn't afford buying that many pearls, I went with Mary Guildford for the decoration using gold trim that was in my stash. This also makes the bonnet more appropriate for the lower station court ladies I usually ended up portraying at faire, ie Baroness or maybe Countess, but usually not Queen.

Still working to get a photo of me wearing it, but again, need to fully finish it with the hair wrap piece. I keep debating, paint stripes or just leave it as plain silk?

Wrist ruffs, and a gable hood
handsewing, tailor sewing
I've been sewing a lot this weekend. Yesterday at our Baronial A&S day, I spent it hand sewing the wrist ruffs, which I had started the weekend before, got stuck when I realized the one strip was twice as long as it should be and ignored it until yesterday. Both wrist ruffs got finished right before I headed home for game night yesterday afternoon.

Today, I finally got out the old gable hood that I had started in 2009, mulled in 2010, and sorta worked on jeweling the front whatsits last summer, is finally getting worked on again with the intention of finishing for Pentathlon. This afternoon I cut out the linen linings for the front portion that frames the face, and the back little box with the two hanging black veils. I spent the afternoon and this evening, while my husband has been playing Lego LotR, and the kids playing other things or with friends, hand sewing the linings into place. Tonight the two linings are done, and so are my hands. Tomorrow, I put the darn thing all together in the back, which scares me as I have no idea how well that will work.

I haven't had to insert a lining to an already shaped hat before, and that was interesting to deal with. The back box required a few pleats for the corners, since I made the lining as a larger square instead of shaping it the same as the box. The head framing portion I had to carefully maintain tension, without pulling the linen too far or it would hang lower than it should. I didn't want to add more contact cement this time as it actually can yellow when it is too thick in an area (as I am seeing happened to the silk in a few spots). I also should NOT have put on the jeweled portion before I put on the lining, as it got in my way and my stitches along the front is rather large, not as small as I would have preferred. Lesson learned (I hope).

Again, as I'm working on this, I keep thinking there had to be a better way. I've got ideas, but not sure when I want to tackle another gable hood once this one is done. But it will look nice when it is all together, and not as gaudy as I feared it would.

Oh, wait, I still have the striped silk I need to create - and I will need to buy a fabric pen since I'm faking the stripes. Still, photos of the main bonnet when it is done tomorrow.

ETA: Seems I didn't blog about putting on the silk satin with contact cement, hand stab sewing on the chenille cotton lappets, or trimming & pearling the front whatsits by hand sewing it through the mulled and semi-covered buckram. I recall then finishing off the hand sewing of the whatsits (gotta find the right name for that piece again), before I sewed it onto the edge of the front bonnet. I don't recall when I did most of that except the trim & pearling which I carried with me to the beach last summer, got it sandy from the kids shoes, and didn't work on it there at all. I was bad on recording all that, sorry.

Gable hood... mulling my night.
handsewing, tailor sewing
Actually starting to work on things again, outside of my computer that is. I've been busy working on next week's Collegium Caidis classroom stuff, mostly gathering pics and putting thoughts down into a presentation for the two classes on Tudor clothing. Still have work to do there. But I did promise a friend I would get her a gable hood for her to use in her classroom, so I figured I should get my arse in gear and actually finish the darn thing that I started how long ago? Hmmm... (looks at old post) last July, which is too long really.

So tonight I got the pieces out from my messy sewing room, and starting glueing on the mulling fabric to it. This time I am trying out recycling an old Micro$oft t-shirt, and am finding I really like how it is working. It's stretchy, so I don't have to clip out curves much, and with my pinking shears I don't have to worry about it unraveling, which is nice, too. I will see how well I can sew into it, but the best part so far is that the fluff amount attaching to my fingertips is almost non-existant. This compares well to that crappy mulling I got a few years ago.

And I did something I thought I would never do. I decided to actually duct tape parts of the hood together. It is the little box at the back of the head. It is a decorative element, has no load bearing part to it, and will be completely hidden by the black fabric I use. So why not! Saves me a little time, and saves my fingertips a little pain from not having to sew the edges together by hand. I am sure in time it may come apart, but hopefully by that point I will need a new gable hood and will make it up properly.

So, while the clips are holding the mulling on till it dries, here's a little pic to show you what the parts look like so far. Excuse the blur... digital phone camera is rather crappy, but I didn't want to waste real film on this project.

Mulling of gable hood Mulling of gable hood
The various parts of the gable hood, some of which are mulled with old t-shirt fabric.

I am trying to figure out if I want to mull the frontlet portion or not. I ran out of clips tonight, but I am also not sure if it needs the extra padding or what. I plan on glueing a double string of faux pearls to the top of it - as most jewels I have I just don't like the look of, and I am feeling rather blah about it as far as being really decorated. I'll figure it out tomorrow and mull if needed.

Well, bedtime is sort of calling... eventually.

Project plans
handsewing, tailor sewing
I've been busy the past few nights helping to proof the final instructions for the Tudor Lady's Wardrobe, at least for the historical content. I just e-mailed it back to Margo. Soon folks, it will be out soon.

And now I want to get back to making something, sewing something, but I've got a bunch of ideas floating in my head. So I figured I should write them down to get some idea of what I should work on first, second, and sew on.

list behind the cut...Collapse )

And for a change of pace now and again, I must continue working on my scroll assignment, as I want to turn it in at GWW in October, as I won't be around to give it to anyone down south after that point. I think one day a week at least is a good thing to shoot for.

Gable hood, the base of it
handsewing, tailor sewing
Yesterday I finished up the buckram cutting, and pattern mods for the outer fabrics. Today I am slowly ... very slowly, hand sewing the millinery wire to the buckram base. It was getting annoying, as the cotton sewing thread I was using, even with heavy waxing, was coming apart under the tension, or falling out of the needle, which being a millinery needle was very frustrating trying to get the thread back into the eye. I finally dragged out from my sewing room give away pile my old polyester threads, and it ended up working better, but still not well. Tomorrow I am going to hunt up my thicker white sewing silk thread and see if that will work any better.

Well... I at least have the main frame completely wired all around, and bent into proper shape, too. I am debating if I want to wire one edge of the back piece that otherwise would have no support. I have at least the square frame to wire, also by hand. I would do so by machine, but these corners would be a pain to try and maneuver by machine, so hand it is. But at this rate I will not be finished by the end of the week. But it should at least be covered with the flannel, if not the fabric coverings.

My plan is to finish what I can this week, then next week switch to all the other French hoods I need to finish up and get those completed. Then at least a day or two to make up a new large ruff, also mostly by hand, and get it dipped into starch to allow to dry for a few days. And somewhere get in the writeups and other images I need for my class. How many days till CoCo? If I get all that done... then I will come back and finish the gable hood, so it may or may not be finished by CoCo... but at least one can try it on.

One day at a time...

Gable hood... a beginning.
tudor ensemble 1
I am working on making gable hood mockups in poster board. They are from Margo's upcoming Tudor Ladies' wardrobe set (at the printers), and I will have these mockups and hopefully one finished gable hood at my class at CoCo in less than a month (eep!) along with my French hoods and Anne of Brittany mockups.

I had a minor issue in size pieces yesterday, but with Margo's great assistance, we have the pattern pieces size corrected. I found an updated pdf of the two pieces waiting in my email inbox this afternoon, for which I am grateful for Margo sending that to me before she went off to vacation (enjoy the trip!)

So today I drew off the new pieces onto posterboard, and taped together the various jigsaw pieces (which go together perfectly now), and put them on my head to see which size to make up, and what mods to make to work them into the time period I want this one for (1520s Tudor). You can do this in cardstock paper, I just knew it needed a little more firmness to handle the upcoming class when people will be trying them on (if only the tapes would hold better).

Size Large was too big for my big head (normally I am in men's sizes with some patterns). The Medium fits me just about right, and Small... it feels ok but is a little short for me, but I am not sure which to go with so I took pics of me wearing the Medium and Small sizes for comparison.
pics behind the cut...Collapse )

Just for comparison, I am going for the style of Lady Mary Guildford, although there are others of the same decade among the images here.

More as things progress.

ETA: Decided to match my 1530s Tudor gown, and go with more of the Jane Seymour shaping instead, which is a little shorter than the Small sized frame at the frontlet (just a smidge), although I need the depth of the medium box for my head.

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