tudor ensemble 1

Kimiko Sews

A Gentlewoman's Creative Blog

Entries by tag: french farthingale

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bw gown
On a different topic while my mind whirs along without sleep... I went by Ninya's site again, chasing something else down, and finding this page with it's lovely outfit, again. It is the blue garment with embroidery she made up, 1590s style, that I had seen before in their book. Cool, I figured I would drool over the embroidery of the stomacher... when something I had been musing about with my own outfit, hit me in the face with her outfit. the rest of my mind"s restless musings behind this cut...Collapse )

whalebone sleeves
tudor ensemble 1
For other reasons, I was just poking through Arnold's PoF 1560-1620 right now, and I found that image of the masquers dancing (fig 53 pg 11), which is where the shaping for the French farthingale is pretty much presumed to come from.

As I am looking at the image, I realize that the sleeves the masquers are wearing are most interesting in their ridged puffiness. It makes me wonder... could those sleeves perhaps be the "borne out with whalebones" mentioned in the text for Fig 54? Could they be what is worn under those 1590s sleeves that make them so stiff looking? Or are they just a sleeve?

And the image reminds me that I need to get over the knee stockings and make garters, so my socks don't fall down and stay down all day long.

(grr... can't find the dancers image online - don't know the title of the watercolor to search the French museum, either)

1590s B&W Gown, Post wearing review.
tudor ensemble 1
I want to thank all who commented about my loss of the ruff. salemkat at faire gave a suggestion that I could use it during Halloween, wearing it as the ghost of an Elizabethan who was burned in a fire! :-P

I sadly did not get photos of myself (which I am kicking myself on), but I am hoping that there will be decent photos of me showing the whole thing. Right now there are a few shots that show portions of me. You can see me behind a chair to the Queen's left/your right.here, and part of the skirt and my head in procession here.

About the whole ensemble... it was comfortable to wear! I was surprised how light everything ended up, even with the heavier skirt material.

the rest of my costume review post-wearing.Collapse )

Petticoat is done!
tudor ensemble 1
Petticoat done!

The upper half is cotton muslin, and the lower half is the charcoal grey silk that was the horrible silk dye project. I figured I may as well use it in this manner, as I had no reason to otherwise use it. The trim is one I bought on Saturday from the Trim Lady since it was the same charcoal grey as the silk, and the silver would go well.

I actually finished it, with skirt hooks even, before midnight (thank God!), so I figured I would post a photo. Full write up later, but I learned a new skill tonight... I finished the hem first, then leveled it on the dress form over the farthingale, which I had never done before (don't know why not). It isn't perfect, but it will work. And even like this, it really is starting to look like something from the 1590s.

Next up... the over skirt. Then the ruff, supportass, hair stuff, and maybe one or two things more, besides doing hand sewing, which I really need to do during the day. There goes the rest of the household chores! Now off to bed for much needed sleep.

Bodice progress pics
tudor ensemble 1
Well, while I am pondering what to do on sleeves, I figured I could at least share pics of my progress so far.

Back piece stabilized Folding back of seam allowance Bodice upper chest Bodice Front Bodice Side Front Bodice Back View

Now to either get back to the sleeves, or do our taxes, depends on if Rob can find our stuff tonight.

Sleeve issues and reeds.
tudor ensemble 1
Well, I have the outer sleeves cut out, but... now I am stumped on the boning for the sleeves. I put in one channel so far and stuck in my 1/4" flat reed, and saw that this reed will just not work. It makes a ridge that will not go away which is what the larger reed did in my French farthingale (but the skirt fabric should cover those ridges).

So, seeing in the back of the TT book that it calls for 6mm centre cane, I went looking for some, only to find that this is a term used in Europe/UK, not in the States. So... hunt further and find that centre cane is the same as round reed. And to get just a few yards, I have to buy bulk online, at least ONE POUND! Uhm... no. Especially since shipping the one pound would be the same or more than the product itself. Not worth it for me.

So, I have to figure out what to do now. Make the sleeves with just stuffing? (Most likely with netting as that's what I have.) Use spiral steel? I have some; tips, too. Just not sure if it will make the ridge like the flat reed does. I guess it is worth a shot. I guess I will learn how to properly cut spiral steel, as I've only done it once before and that's been a couple of years. I think if that doesn't work out, it will just be stuffing with net, and reed can be used the next time I make sleeves like that.

NOTE: In the future, use 8mm round reed for French farthingales, now that I know what I was supposed to use.

Some progress
embroidery blackwork
Despite the problems with the dyeing, I am nearly done with couching the backside piece. I've got boning cut, ground, and plastic dipped for the backside of the French farthingale (a step I had forgotten) ready for insertion. And the bum roll is ready. So, there is some good progress.

Tomorrow I have to prep for teaching a French hood class on Saturday. Otherwise, I start next on prepping the sleeves for couching.

Bum Roll #2
tudor ensemble 1
After dinner, I went back to my sewing room, to make up bum roll #2. how I made one behind cut...Collapse )

I am wearing it right now, and I am not sure how it will work under the farthingale itself. It is supposed to be worn above the hips, from the one pic in the TT book, but it wants to sit at my actual waist when I am sitting down. I think I will need to spend some time wearing the whole undies before the event to get used to this, before I put the gown on as well. Amusingly, my tummy helps to keep the front padding down, as I can hook it under the tummy... which just sounds and feels wrong. I guess I will see how this works in reality. And I will take photos of this, but not right now as I am in my pjs, and I am not taking photos looking as I do.

I will say, that this style is really something for those with large bottoms, and small upper bodies, which I am not. With the artificial hips from hell (and yes, I do have to move sideways through doors), anything large under the farthingale is just not seen, while everything above it is quite snug and very there, except for the highly padded sleeves and huge ruff, of course. So, it is not about the body you have, but the artificial shape of the whole package. It's very strange to my eyes, and it will take some time to get used to this.

Bumroll #1
tudor ensemble 1
Well, I am trying to make a bumroll for myself. It is my first one, and I am not sure what I am doing. Yeah, that's right, my first bumroll, since I've always figured my ample bum was enough for the other Elizabethan style I wore. But this French farthingale really needs one, and so one will get made.

I thought I was almost done, but... bumroll #1 was not wide enough, because silly me forgot to add seam allowances. I also didn't realize just how thin it would end up once stuffed, soooooo... back to the pattern and add both a seam allowance, and at least another inch, probably two. I will keep the one I did make to wear under another style in the future, but I stopped stuffing it once I realized how skinny it had become.

I think I also need to figure out how to add in the tape into the seam allowance. I just wasn't sure where the tapes should attach exactly.

So, after dinner, it will be back to the sewing board.

More progress
tudor ensemble 1
So, the waistband binding is sewn down, as well as one side of the back seam binding. I also managed to wiggle in the three 5/8" reed canes into their channels, which took awhile of wrangling. The canes were damp & soft, but they aren't lying flat, and I don't think they will or need to. But they do fit snugly in their channels, which is giving a nice tension across the whole thing.

And nearly done, I put it onto myself, and it fit closed in the back, although part of it rides up a little to do so. Ah well, so long as it works as it should. It looks almost like panniers, since the sides are wider than the center front or back.

I will let it sit overnight so the reeds can dry out, before I clip it and sew down the other binding edge. Still debating on how I want it to tie closed, with sewn on ribbon ties, or eyelets with laces.

So, with this nearly done, I should be able sometime this weekend to begin the bodice patterning, marking, and framing for embroidery, so I can finally begin the work to sew on the silver cording and silver spangles. I also need to make up the larger support roll, but bodice marking must happen soon. I also need to pick up peg rod for my slate frame, among other things.

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