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tudor ensemble 1

Kimiko Sews

A Gentlewoman's Creative Blog

Entries by tag: embroidery

Short Updating post on stuff.
tudor ensemble 1
kimikosews
(Cross posted from A Gentlewoman's Blog: http://kimiko1.com/blog/2015/01/short-updating-post-on-stuff/)

Wow, it has been half a year since I wrote in this blog last. That’s a long time. I am out of practice it would seem.


So, what have I been doing? Well, I mostly finished the wood chair I had been working on, although I have not had the chance to decorate it. I’m not happy with the wood finish I put on it, so I’ve stalled on it trying to figure out what to do. It scuffs too much. I’ve not taken photos that I recall, but will check the files later.


I’ve not done any work on the wooden boxes. I have the pattern, and someday they will get done.


The banner remains unpainted.


The blackwork for the shirt was finished, but the gold plaitwork embroidery has not begun.


I have been sick with the flu and bronchitis during December, so many of my projects went on hold until very recently. There is one project that I started up a few days ago, and shared the photo on my FB page.


Laurel Gown interlace progress image, (c) Kimiko Small, 2015. Laurel Gown interlace progress image, (c) Kimiko Small, 2015. Click to view larger image.


This section will get cut up and appliqued to one of the hanging sleeves to my Laurel Gown, along with other panels. That is why it is being done on an angle, as the sleeve hems are curved. It should work, as the neck was done in a similar way. It was supposed to be done for 12th Night, but illness nixed those plans.


I’ve not done much artistically in the past six months, but this is a new year, and I’ve got a new computer to replace my dying laptop, working apps, programs and photo viewers, and other stuff, and lots of creative ideas to get working on. So, while it may be a slow start, I will be posting more.


Btw, I just edited an old post on a Jane Seymour image (an unusual portrait) to update the image, since the old image link was broken. It has a bigger image if you click on the small one. Give it a looksee here.





1501 to 1550, Clothing, Embroidery, Goldwork, Other Arts, embroidery, laurel_gown
(Cross posted from A Gentlewoman's Blog: http://kimiko1.com/blog/2015/01/short-updating-post-on-stuff/. Comments can be posted here or there.)

Creative But Slowly
tudor ensemble 1
kimikosews
(Cross posted from A Gentlewoman's Blog: http://kimiko1.com/blog/2014/07/creative-but-slowly/)

It has been a month since I posted last, but I have been slowly working on a few creative projects.


One project is a woodworking project. No, I’m not making it from wood, they are already made and purchased, from various sources. I am working on ideas on how to decorate the wooden items. One is a wooden narrow small box that I use for my sewing tools. Another is a set of 2 wooden poles that I need to finish so I can use them for my silk banner. And the final is a lovely, well crafted portable break-down chair I bought from Wildhare Woodworks last GWW, and finally got a couple of weeks ago. I started sanding the wooden items, and filling in minor holes with wood putty, but then we hit 100+ temps and so since I have to do that outside it has been put on hold until the temps come down a little. I still haven’t figured out which design I posted on FB best, so I’m just letting those ideas stew a bit longer.


I did start painting my device on a canvas banner. Not much to show there really, just a big blob of yellow on the white canvas. I will share more later. 


Last Sunday I worked on an illuminated letter that I’ve worked on and off since last year sometime. I added in the red squares this time, and started in on all the tiny little dots. I hope to get it turned in to the Kingdom soonish. I just hadn’t realized when I chose to do background diapering that all those tiny squares, and then all the white work dots, would take so long to do. I just thought it would be cool to add to make the illumination more period looking.


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(Cross posted from A Gentlewoman's Blog: http://kimiko1.com/blog/2014/07/creative-but-slowly/)

<p>It has been a month since I posted last, but I have been slowly working on a few creative projects.</p>
<p>One project is a woodworking project. No, I&#8217;m not making it from wood, they are already made and purchased, from various sources. I am working on ideas on how to decorate the wooden items. One is a wooden narrow small box that I use for my sewing tools. Another is a set of 2 wooden poles that I need to finish so I can use them for my silk banner. And the final is a lovely, well crafted portable break-down chair I bought from Wildhare Woodworks last GWW, and finally got a couple of weeks ago. I started sanding the wooden items, and filling in minor holes with wood putty, but then we hit 100+ temps and so since I have to do that outside it has been put on hold until the temps come down a little. I still haven&#8217;t figured out which design I posted on FB best, so I&#8217;m just letting those ideas stew a bit longer.</p>
<p>I did start painting my device on a canvas banner. Not much to show there really, just a big blob of yellow on the white canvas. I will share more later.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Last Sunday I worked on an illuminated letter that I&#8217;ve worked on and off since last year sometime. I added in the red squares this time, and started in on all the tiny little dots. I hope to get it turned in to the Kingdom soonish. I just hadn&#8217;t realized when I chose to do background diapering that all those tiny squares, and then all the white work dots, would take so long to do. I just thought it would be cool to add to make the illumination more period looking.</p>
<p id="" align="alignnone" width="800"]<img title="illuminated L in Progress" src="http://kimiko1.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/illuminated_L_in_Progress.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="800" data-json="" /> illuminated L in Progress[/caption]</p>
<p>Sorry I didn&#8217;t add in something for scale. It is about 3.5 inches square, more or less. And don&#8217;t those dots really change the character of the background colors?<br />
<!--more--><br />
I have also been working nearly every day for the past couple of weeks on my current blackwork project, which I hadn&#8217;t touched in several months. I am trying to do at least 15 minutes, but often do an hour or so of stitching time which is getting me closer to done faster.&nbsp;</p>
<p>[caption id=&#8221;" align=&#8221;alignnone&#8221; width=&#8221;800&#8243;> <a href="http://kimiko1.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Blackwork_Shirt_Progress.jpg"><img title="Blackwork Shirt Progress" src="http://kimiko1.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Blackwork_Shirt_Progress.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="800" /></a> <snap class="wpimgcaption">Blackwork Shirt Progress</snap> </p>
<p>The above image (both done up courtesy of a new iPad app I am trying called InstaCollage) shows both the full overview on top, and a detailed image below where I last left off. You can see the scale for the detailed shot, which is not the same as the full overview.</p>
<p>This as I may have mentioned before is using cotton pearl thread so it can be machine washable. The narrow outlined path will be filled in with gold thread in a plaited braid design once all the blackwork is done. The design is called Murano, and was purchased from Practical Blackwork. When finished, the pieces will be cut and applied on top of the high necked shirt I plan to make to go with it.</p>
<p>I had finished off the portion that will go down the front slit, which is why it is a deep U shape that you can only see a part of. The newer part is the collar, which will go to nearly the other edge of the fabric for a full 17.5&#8243; for my neck (I want a tad extra just in case), and need about another 7&#8243; more to go. Then I do 2 pieces for the cuffs, although the pattern will shift to a narrower version. I am planning this for early Elizabethan, and for everyday wear, so the cuffs will be wider than in period just to accommodate the embroidery. I am hoping to finish this in the next few months, so slow and steady will get me there.</p>
<p>So, that&#8217;s the current state of my creative side. I have other ideas I need to work on soon for various reasons, which should keep me very busy this month. So hopefully more stuff to share with you all soon.</p>
<p>So, what have you been doing creatively lately?
<div id="bpp_credits" style="clear: both; float: right; width: 200px; height: 70px; text-align:right;"><a href="http://www.blogpadpro.com" target="_blank" style="text-decoration : none;"><span style="vertical-align: middle; font-size: 8pt; color:#999;">Edited with BlogPad Pro</span><img style="vertical-align: middle; padding-left: 5px;" src="http://files.blogpadpro.com/images/speech-bubble.png" width="25" height="25" /></a></div>



Blackwork, Embroidery, Other Arts, Scribal, Uncategorized, accessories, embroidery, modern_clothes, photos, scribal
(Cross posted from A Gentlewoman's Blog: http://kimiko1.com/blog/2014/07/creative-but-slowly/. Comments can be posted here or there.)

Slate Frame Prep
tudor ensemble 1
kimikosews
(Cross posted from A Gentlewoman's Blog: http://kimiko1.com/blog/2014/03/slate-frame-prep/)

Today, in order to jump start my creative spirit, which has been slowly returning (I did sketch a banner idea last weekend), I decided to just go into my sewing room and do something, anything, and after standing there with music playing, and staring at my mostly cleared table top (that had some before-mentioned banner sketches on it), I realized that banners was just not on my mind today, but I had been staring at something every day for the past few months and really it was time to do something with it.


I’m speaking about the goldwork embroidery project from the Laurel gown project, that has been mostly finished for a long time. It is the section that goes around the neck. It just needed the proper pearls – but sadly, those are MIA right now. So, instead of letting that grind me to a halt, I decided it could get pearls later, then removed it from the frame, ripping the stitches with an X-acto knife, since my seam rippers are also MIA.


I had more fabric still on the frame, so I cut off the neck section, and tried to cut it off on the straight of grain. Then I sewed the edge to the frame piece trim, put on the side frame bars, and realized that it really was off grain, as you can see here.


This frame is set up crooked! This frame is set up crooked!


The two white arrows show the straight of grain (well, as well as it could be photographed), and the red arrow shows how the one side was angling off grain. This is not good, as it will have problems when fully laced up and tension applied. I could feel it torquing in my hands. So, that new seam had to be ripped out.


So, this reminded me, as I’m ripping the seam out again, that in January, I was privileged to go to Mathew Gnagy’s tailoring class in L.A.. During the class, Mathew talked about sewing in the period way, as a tailor would sew – which simply put was ‘quickly, but efficiently’. I thought about the same as I was putting in the stitches, again, that while before I would put in my whip stitches rather close together, I realized that really, it wasn’t necessary. After all the lacing stitches on the side are about an inch apart, and they still worked out fine for tension. So, I relaxed a little and only focused on keeping the stitches relatively close to the edge, trying to keep the straight grain relatively straight. It does make it easier to rip out when needed, fyi. Oh, and I have a pic of this, too.


Showing new (left) and old stitch spacing. Showing new looser (left) and old, tighter stitch spacing.


I do think maybe I could space out the stiches even farther apart, but it will take awhile to let loose with any of my stitches.


So, with all of this going on in my head, I sewed it all back together, put in the side bars, and woohoo! tension was good! Then it was lacing the sides frames into place, which had some snags with broken or knotted strings, but I made it work, and it all came together very nicely.


I just realized that I was so busy with all the Laurel prep-work, I’ve not really discussed how I went about doing it all. Well, hopefully this helps in understanding the embroidery part, at least.


After a short break, I got down to marking out my guidelines in white chalk. The guidelines were mostly for the center line of the pattern, since the embroidery on this panel will be done on the bias in order to make the embroidery fit the hem curves easier.


I made sure to mark my pattern copy with a line down the center, trying to hit all the crossed lines in the middle – as the pattern comes from a painting that’s been blown up (as seen in here), that is a bit more difficult, so I just made sure the line was straight and hoped it would line up. Using my acid-free white gel pen, I marked the pattern down on the silk. The final panel looks like this.


Slate frame ready to go. Slate frame ready to go.


I enhanced the photo to better show the pattern. But here’s the slate frame, all ready to start on the next set of interlacing for the Laurel gown. Which I do have a photo of that dress, somewhere. Oh, and the pattern repeats, so the empty spot could have been fit with another of the repeat, but I’d rather keep the four motifs together on the panel, and have even marked the end of one, and the beginning of the next, so I don’t forget how they go together.


Oh, and that banner I mentioned, I’ll have more on it next month after the local workshop on making them.





Embroidery, Goldwork, Prep &amp; Other, embroidery, laurel_gown, photos
(Cross posted from A Gentlewoman's Blog: http://kimiko1.com/blog/2014/03/slate-frame-prep/. Comments can be posted here or there.)

Making decisions and dealing with setbacks.
bw gown
kimikosews
Back to LJ for this post, as my current host seems to be having MySql issues so I have no main blog today. It's been acting oddly since yesterday, but hopefully the folks there will have it back up and running soon. I just hope I have a blog to return to. (Edit: main blog has returned ok)

Anyway, back to the Laureling short gown project. I'm still waiting on samples from the UK, so I've turned focus on what to do for the embroidery. I spent yesterday measuring the gown edges, doing math for figuring out how many repeats of the pattern I'll need, which leads to how many pearls and garnets I would need to buy ... and OMG! after redoing the math (I'd forgotten the skirt sides x4), it was over 4,000 pearls! Read more...Collapse )

Photo of High Neck Smock Blackwork
tudor ensemble 1
kimikosews
(Crossposted from my blog: http://www.kimiko1.com/blog/?p=133)

This is old, and I've been dealing with more personal problems, but I figured I should still share what I had done. Blackwork was finished on the high neck smock, at least for the front chest area. I still need to work on the cuffs, and add in the gold threads.

Blackwork for high neck smock

Maybe at some point soon I'll begin work on the cuffs.

Image of the Day - Jane Seymour
tudor ensemble 1
kimikosews
(Cross posted from my blog here: Permalink: http://www.kimiko1.com/blog/?p=120)

There are days when I get sidetracked into looking up an image. Today was one of those days when I was reading about the different types of blackwork on the Historic Hand Embroidery group. They hadn't posted an image of Hans Holbein's works that have blackwork embroidery, even though an alternate name for the one of the stitches used is Holbein stitch (aka Spanish stitch, true stitch, double-running stitch, line stitch, etc.), so I went hunting.

And that is when I found this image, but in wonderful glorious super huge sized Google scan of the original, located on wikimedia commons. You can see incredible details of not only her blackworked sleeve ruffle (which I often see redone as a cuff not ruffle - not sure why), but her smock square (the area around the neck) is done in white work! And there is this interesting little black dots along the edges of both areas.

The image here is a far smaller sized image as a place holder.

Click to go to wikimedia commons page for much larger image.

We are now discussing this image as we are seeing various details. As an example, you can see that on her English bonnet (mka English gabled hood), it appears that the golden geometric band portion is not a fabric brocade. Instead it appears to be either gold tubular beads with goldwork in between, or perhaps all in goldwork, done in smooth and rough/check purls. The only question I have is the white silk or fine linen?

I'm also seeing subtle details in how the edge of the hood is done, and even in how the gold jeweled ouches are far more dimensional than I had original thought (and than is usually recreated). I am now tempted to make up this bonnet in a more period fashion, but that is going to take a lot of goldwork now, and jewels, and more.

But for now, enjoy the image!

Short Gown Sample Embroidery 1
tudor ensemble 1
kimikosews
(Crossposted from the original blog post, http://www.kimiko1.com/blog/?p=106)

Now that you know what I am working towards, I can now share the embroidery sample I made up today.

My plan is to use dark gold passing thread instead, onto a black silk of some sort. The embroidery will be done on my slate frames, in a bias direction to allow for some flex around the curves of the sleeve and skirt hems (it can pivot a bit in the joins between motifs). The two areas at the top of each sleeve will have to have a specific design worked out just to fit, and that will be done last.

Here is the embroidery sample I did up...Read more...Collapse )

Things to ponder.

Short gown design
tudor ensemble 1
kimikosews
(Crossposted from the original blog post, http://www.kimiko1.com/blog/?p=98)

I finished off the blue phoenix (which I still have to write up and share more here). So after dealing with SCA and personal stuff, I started to think about my next long term project, the short gown in velvet and silk. Read more...Collapse )

I will talk about the first embroidery sample in the next post.

Blue Phoenix Or nué
tudor ensemble 1
kimikosews
So, I took up a new embroidery project, an Or nué blue phoenix, which will become a small badge attached to a future carry bag for SCA use. The main reason I am working on it now is because of our Baronial A&S competition, which had at its main component something metal. Gold, even faux gold, was approved as a metal. I chose the phoenix as I'm a member of the Order of the Phoenix. Blue & gold are my chosen colors (along with silver), so the colors in the inspiration piece were perfect for me. The baronial colors are also blue and gold, but the phoenix is all gold. This just makes it more me.Read more...Collapse )

(x-posted from my new blog location, http://www.kimiko1.com/blog/?p=54. Still a work in progress there.

Teaching Henrician/Tudor & my short gown.
tudor ensemble 1
kimikosews
One of the things that was firmed up this past weekend, is the planning for having Henrician/Tudor costuming classes for our Kingdom. You see, our future Queen has plans to step down from their reign in November wearing Henricians, roughly 1530 to 1540. Right up my costuming alley. They will be stepping up in Venetians, which tempted me for awhile, but I have things I need to create/work on before their reign starts in June (like garb for the kids), so while I thought about it, instead I will be finishing up an outfit that has been sitting in its box for some time waiting for the final details.

I won't be teaching Henrician costuming alone (I couldn't do all that traveling down south). It will be a group effort with the Clothiers guild, and with Baroness Ceara, who recently did her own Catherine Parr court gown. Both Baroness Ceara and myself were asked to run this effort, and I am looking forward to doing what I can, which will include more online research information when this gets active.

So, the long term focus for this year is making an Henrician outfit. I had already planned on doing so, the fancy short gown, but for 12th Night next January, not early November. Yes, it is normally plenty of time for me to make such an outfit, but this time I want embroidery, hand sewn embroidery, and that will take lots of time to do up.
[eta: This is the inspiration for the short gown | this is the sleeve inspiration. I plan on wearing my new English bonnet (aka gable).]

Thankfully, I had already been planning this for awhile in my head, and collecting various images and drawings, trying to figure out a pattern that would be interesting, but not too difficult to embroider. I do not want to spend a few years in the embroidery, so as I mentioned before (here), I will be twisting my own cords and couching those into a nice pattern. Hopefully doing that will only take several months.

But one difficulty I was finding is that often, the pretty (and woodcut accurate) period patterns require several cords being used at once. And they often were not continuous, but started and stopped often. But looking at images of Henry VIII and Francois of France, the embroidery usually done on them appears to be one cord doing dips and curves, which is easier to control. And they were repeating motifs. But without repeating those exact patterns, I wasn't finding an interlace that was continuous and only used one cord among the period woodcuts. (sigh).

Then a friend posted a link to this image of Girolamo di Benvenuto, Portrait of a Young Woman, c. 1508. Yes, she is lovely, but what caught my eye was the edge design of the panel, the interlace, and in tracking each design it only uses 2 separate cords, for the most part. And it offers corner designs, which I will have to use on the gown I've got planned. Here's a detailed shot of that interlace pattern.

Interlace from GBenvenuto painting
Yes, the pattern is most likely Italian in origin. But like the period embroidery books, the patterns ended up spreading far and wide, and interlacing itself is a very old art form reaching to the Roman times. And since this pattern seems to fulfill my objectives, I shall be using it - once I work up the pattern tracing, and make up a test sample.

My only concerns is that even with this embroidery the outfit as a short gown may not be "impressive" enough compared to the typical French gown/court Tudor style. I've also got to find an appropriate fabric to use as the kirtle. I did decide that the kirtle will have a train, depending on how much fabric I find. I'm leaning towards making it in a dark orange or golden orange color, which should pop against the teal blue/green of the velvet and silk. The embroidery will be on black silk and applied as a guard along the gown edges, both skirts and sleeves. I may even add pearls, maybe. I've still got some hunting to do, but starting the embroidery will be a big help.

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